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Topic Date User
trad + grigri 29-Feb-2012 At 1:55:31 PM climbau
A couple of suggestions;
1. (sport climbing) Don't skip clips. Just 'cause everyone else does, doesn't mean you have to or should do. Especially seeing as though you know the weight difference causes groundfalls/scrapes.
2. (trad climbing OR sport climbing) Instead of anchoring the belayer, why not try anchoring the belay device. The belayer can clip in short to the device of choice and maintain control without being dragged off the ground. Granted, this method will compromise the dynamicity(?) of the belay but will stop the belayer from being thrown around like a rag doll (provided the length of anchor strap is correct). When using a Grigri etc whilst clipping bolts and wanting to not be slammed into wall or roof lip the belayer can keep enough slack in the system to avoid those issues (clearly judgement plays a big part).
3. (trad climbing) place gear often and don't run it out un-necessarily. Shorter falls have less time to generate energy (let the engineers and physicists prove me wrong now!).
4. (trad climbing) Utilise "screamers" on suspect/smaller pieces to absorb more energy?
Dynamic belays are just one, very effective, way to minimise forces on the belay/er and climber and protection. (*Macca is right, rope craft is something many modern belayers don't learn and don't even think about)

And on a more sensitive topic. Maybe your girlfriend doesn't like being told where to stand, but it is your body hitting the deck( or potentially) so you have every right to advise and even insist if you feel strongly enough. If she cannot respect that don't let her ego determine your fate, go climb something else. Linze, I freely admit that I do not know you or your girlfriend and this means I am making assumptions (albeit based on the behaviour of strangers that I see at the crag (and even at the local shopping centre!)) please do not take my comments as inflammatory.

*POST EDIT* I have a problem with people referring to Grigris/Cinchs/Eddys etc as Auto-locking, I keep getting images of complacent belayers running around thinking they can eat a sandwich, drink a beer, and talk on the phone whilst doing the second most important task in climbing (the first being that the leader never falls! :P). I prefer to refer to them as assisted-locking devices.

Hmm, maybe I need to climb more and think less :(((

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