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Topic Date User

trad + grigri 29-Feb-2012 At 1:20:58 PM Linze

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On 29/02/2012 kieranl wrote:
>On 29/02/2012 Linze wrote:
>>On 29/02/2012 andesite wrote:
>>>n 29/02/2012 Linze wrote:
>>>I agree tying down the belayer is not ideal, but since using a Grigri
>>>won't actually solve your problem, I thought I'd mention it
>>
>>im not so sure? be it slippage or some other mysterious factor (such
>as
>>user reaction time?? variabilty in the way the device is used???), i
>would
>>rather have an automated device when the ground is approaching quickly...
>Wake up mate. You're perfectly right - this doesn't happen to other people
>normally. You say somewhere that the grigri regularly hits the first draw,
>that tells me that your belayer is being pulled at least a couple of metres
>and I'm guessing probably more. you aren't hitting the ground because she's
>dropping you, it's because she's being pulled across the ground and up
>in the air letting you fall extra metres.
>Stop waffling about belay devices and sort out what's happening to your
>belayer. Tie her down or stand her straight under the first draw. Otherwise
>you are going to get hurt and it won't be her fault.

i get the feeling we climb in differnt styles. i sport climb almost exclusivly, in which (in my mind) soft belays are a matter of safety... i think that a larger danger in this case is, as friend did, smacking the wall and breaking something. so for me dynamic belays are a part of climbing safely and enjoyably, ocassionally in this particular situation it means soft scrapes with the ground... but i would consider creating a static belay system a far greater danger

my gf and i have climber together for 4 years and it seems to be working, on occasions the falls gets pretty outragous but never dangerous, i never accused her of dropping me and not sure why you put this in your post, she is a damn good belayer. she stands what she deems to be the correct position in relation to the first draw and understands that this can be used to improve the dynamic nature of a a belay were required. she would probably think you were a bit of a @ss for assumung that i should dictate where she stands and how she belays. she hates hanging/static belay arrangments becasue they create drama for her becasue of weight. we havent trad climbed together yet, but will soon, and she didnt wanna use an atc becasue she is comfortable with the currrent set up. because i do little trad climbing i still held onto the no gri gri for trad rule, im sure if you come sport climbing up in the bluies there will be some equally trival piece of knoweldeg that your not sure about that i may be...

i think that you may have underestimated our abilty to calculate and manage risk, as you did my knowledge of placing gear... i reckon you are pretty wide of the mark calling people you know bugger all about dangerous based on the evidence of a few selcted parts of a few posts...