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Topic	Date	User
trad + grigri	29-Feb-2012 At 1:20:42 PM	IronCheff
Message
On 29/02/2012 benjenga wrote: >On the topic of multi direction peices I was always taught that the first >placement on any trad climb should be capable un upward movement, cam if >possible to avoid unzippering the whole pitch. True or false? False. Though there is some truth in it. If the belayer is directly underneath the climb and the climb goes straight up then there will be no outwards pull on the pro. Otherwise having the first piece being able to handle any outward or sidewards forces is a good idea. It doesn’t have to be a cam though, it can be a good deep nut placement or 2 opposing nuts, 1 pulling up and the other down.

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