I'm pretty new to trad leading, especially on mutipitches, but I go by two things when choosing gear to take up: 1 - the guide book's recommendations. 2 - if climbing a large crack, take large gear; if climbing a thin crack, take small nuts etc etc. if climbing a rocky outcrop, take lots of slings.
I agree with a couple of the above messages saying that you're not likely to onsight a trad lead at your sport lead limit. The moves are harder to make nomatter how small the rack is, and you're more focussed on getting up safely than pulling some sweet technical moves. |