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testing 2 - coachscrews plus glue 24-Nov-2011 At 6:19:37 PM Jim Titt

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Be interesting how you get on with the epoxy stuff, we tested a couple of different brands with varying results, one from Henkel (the people who make Loctite and such like) and it was worthless, about the same strength as chewing gum (though to be fair it didn´t actually claim to be epoxy, just a super strong repair stick or something). We used another called Wetseal which was for plumbers and that was pretty good but stayed a bit rubbery, you could slightly move the bolt but it didn´t come out, (well it did at 38kN after 1 hr which is about the same as a poor polyester.)

Glue shrink isn´t a problem in the diameters we work at, for giant fixings there are other formulations to overcome this. Normally over 24mm you start to think about it. The glues are in fact mainly filler powder which doesn´t shrink anyway.

Notching against rotation:- No manufacturer actually recommends this for several reasons, the main one being nobody got their certification testing done this way. It doesn´t make the bolts any stronger either and is a pain to do in granite and marble. The standard requires that the anti-rotation is in the bolt design not the rock anyway so traditional is an angled cut. The UIAA standard for glue-ins (which is pretty well ignored) calls for this to be tested by applying a torque of 150N/m on the bolt which shears off just about anything anyway, certainly a 10mm thrubolt won´t take this!

Jim