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Topic Date User

Small Cam Advice - Metolius Master Cams & TCUs 27-Mar-2011 At 3:34:36 PM another dave

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This seems to be the best site in regards to small cam reviews
http://www.supertopo.com/reviews/gear.php?cat=1214&c=small+camming+device

I have seen a tcu rip at araps it was placed in a pocket at about 30 degrees really close to the ground. The climber fell, the tcu ripped and a nut caught the fall just off the ground. I think the cable on the tcu touched the rock and levered the lobes of the cam out sideways instead of allowing them to cam in a straight down fall. I don't think it would have happened with a single stem cam.
I would suggest you get the four lobe units over the 3 as they have greater holding power.
I think your choice depends on what type of rock you plan to use them on. Araps and limestone has lots of weird shapped pockets or features so go with the single stem units.
For Dolerite, granite, sandstone it won't make to much difference however the U stem models are stronger and lighter.
Though for sandstone I would personally prefer as many lobes on the rock as possible especially at pt perp.
There is also a video on youtube somewhere (couldn't find it) showing a mastercam in a horizontal placement that when loaded cause the triggers to disengage the lobes.

But in the end they all work and I don't think when your struggling and swearing halfway up a climb your first thought is going to be "oh shit I wish I had (insert model of cam here) instead of these crappy things"