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Topic Date User

rop solo anchor 8-Feb-2011 At 12:00:01 AM jkane

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On 7/02/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
>Would it be better to have a screamer/load limiter on a dodgy piece, as
>opposed to having it on the anchor?

DISCLAIMER: None of this is from experience, just thinking out loud here.

The dodgy piece would only get loaded (properly in the intended direction) if you fell on that piece. The anchor would get loaded if you fell on that piece or any another piece. If you only have one screamer and more than one marginal placement (or series of) putting the screamer at the anchor makes sense right?

On the other hand, because of friction in the rope and all the runners, the forces are higher on the top piece than at the anchor anyway so maybe a screamer at the anchor would not be that effective at reducing forces on the top piece.

I think these are the things you would need to consider. Someone with a physics PHD will probably now tell me why I'm talking shit and hopefully I'll be able to follow it.