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Topic Date User

Broken gear loop. 17-Dec-2010 At 4:53:31 PM ..::- Chris -::..

Message

On 17/12/2010 Wollemi wrote:
>Harness in question is an Edelrid that came with 2 gear loops. As it is
>my most-padded harness, I continued to use it.
>
>Doing the thumb-in-bum kinda thing, the rope against my torso down from
>the friction device (Reverso), which was correctly connected by a carabiner
>to the belay loop, the rope was incidentally held against the gear loop
>- adjacent to where it is sewn into the harness.
>
>In one pitch of a multi-pitch abseil, the gear loop wore/melted through
>over 50% of its thickness, simply for lightly dragging the rope against
>the gear loop.
>
>Who would be foolish enough to connect a prussik loop to a gear loop?
>- many manufacturers state they will only hold 5kg weight max.

I knew there was a logical explanation..... All good...,

2 Gear loops for trad is not ideal really.... You could go with chest loops, i've seen a number of people using them and sware by them... gear on the harness, draws on the loops or whatever....

On 17/12/2010 WM wrote:
>a certain splattee at Nunawading indoor gym about 2 years ago had tied
>and clipped into a gear loop ...

I've also seen people at Altona clip into the draws to rest... In this case it wasn't quite as bad....the beleyer was giving advice on how to complete the climb and the climber (who couldn't see the beleyer) said " Hang on i'll clip into this side thingy so i can see you...."

It held... I cringed... then gave advice about using gear loops.... and got a "Nah mate she's fine.... i do it all the time" .....

If you're considering a new harness....

I'm 85 kg's 6'2" and I've recently (a year ago) purchased the Black Diamond Blizzard and found / find it extremely comfortable! ESP if your looking for a good trad / padded harness. 4 Gear Loops, adjustable leg loops and single "big" double threaded buckle (I'm not a fan of the pezel double buckle system or harness's for that matter, but shape n size could have something to do with it....

The BD Blizzard harness is comfortable to sit in all day which I seem to do allot of lately ; )

Best of Luck with it....
Cheers
Chris.