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Topic Date User

Combined gear test results 2-Dec-2010 At 7:14:54 PM Tommo

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Why so negative? I was thanking someone for their contribution. I never mentioned rings. Better bolting choices WILL cause less damage. Dude, relax. Go take a nice long whipper.

On 2/12/2010 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 1/12/2010 Tommo wrote:
>>Wow! This is an incredible wealth of information you have gathered Mikl.
>
>Well yeah, but most of it turned out exactly as expected........I don't
>know if you can publish stuff which says "this is exactly what everyone
>always thought and now we think it too"? The exceptions (I know, I know,
>the exceptions are why you do tests) are the hanger chopping thing (although
>I reckon 10+kN is fine), and the fact that Ubolts are totally, massively
>strong as shit...........what's with that Jim Tit dude dissing them?
>The other big surprise, from the trad testing, is that a tied off hex,
>half hanging out of a hole might be rather strong.....who knew?
>
>>Longer lasting
>>bolts mean less frequent replacement and thus less potential damage to
>>the rock.
>
>Sigh, this is a pretty dumb thing to say. Have you seen the result of
>removing a recessed ring? The effect on the rock is much the same as busting
>one with a pull-tester, i.e. giant cratering...........a glued stainless
>carrot, on the other hand; same lifespan, remove by twisting to crack the
>glue then lever out and reuse the hole with no damage to the rock.
>
>The same problem exists for trubolts in hard rock. What the fuch is gonna
>happen in 50yrs when they need replacing? Smash the rock, or drill a new
>hole..........long term impact is increased so we can upgrade strength
>now from "plenty strong enough" to "stupidly over-engineered but not easily
>maintained"
>
>Anyway, good effort Mike.......shame the results will be misused