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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Topic Date User

reclassifying carrots as trad gear 26-Oct-2010 At 2:38:19 PM mikepatt

Message

On 26/10/2010 mikllaw wrote:
>On 26/10/2010 ajfclark wrote:
>>If a biner is too thin to sufficiently fill the keyhole (or a wire gate
>>and rotates so the gate is in the keyhole) the bolt plate just lifts
>off
>>as the rope jiggles the draw around.
>
>It happens about 3 times a year from what I hear.
>Also you can flip the boltplate unside down in a fall and the boltplate
>opens and comes straight off, only once, in QLD

Or you can can put the bolt plate on upside down in the first place and it will just lift off... as I did on one of my first leads (grade 17 variant finsih to Sweet Dreams) I was very gripped and a bit out of my depth and the draws came off the first two or three bolts. I was soooo gripped I didn't notice and my belayer kept very quite so as not to alarm me. I didn't have that problem on the traverse pitch as I took a lower line than the bolts so I didn't clip any..