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The big trad gear destructo challenge 21-Oct-2010 At 7:26:57 PM Chuck Norris

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I assume youre looking to find whether experienced climbers are better at *assessing* rather than placing gear I'd say a better setup for the experiment would be for you to place say 20 pieces and then get as many people as you can with various experience to rate each piece (15 seconds per piece to form opinion?).

Then test each placement to failure. As well as variables you mention you should ask for mode of failure (gear break, gear distort, rock distort, rock failure)

You'd get much more data and would be easier to correct for biases (individuals natural conservatism etc)

[post edit...if you want to test whether experienced climbers are better at placing gear than newbies then you need a different experiment - point is don't conflate the two concepts in the one experiment]