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Weight belt/vest for strength training 13-Aug-2010 At 6:15:11 PM rod

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I trained a bit for about 18 months up until April 2009 and took my onsight grade from 6a+/b to about 7a through strength gains and dropping weight from about 80kg to 77kg.

I've NOT trained for the past 18 months and had 9 months completely off rock but after getting back into in May I have been doing a reasonable amount of route climbing.

The 2 things I've noticed from not doing any training are that without regular bouldering my level dropped pretty rapidly in sustained overhangs and with no fingerboard training I am really noticing the lack of contact strength. I'd say my overall onsight level has dropped from about 7a/+ to 6c max since July last year when I tweaked my right wrist and at the moment it seems I can't do a 7b to save my life, but I'm still a grade and a bit better at onsights than where I was previous to doing the structured training.

The time not training has seen my fingers recover and the joints feel as smooth as silk, I feel like I'd be able to sustain some real punishment now...Moonboard & fingerboard being readied.