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Topic Date User
Anchoring advice 7-Apr-2010 At 4:20:06 PM Phil Box
One thing I really really like to do when setting up a multi pitch trad belay is to have those pieces well high. I then extend myself down from the anchor, rarely will I clip directly into the power point. This gives me a lot of room to work with should the need arise.
1. It leaves me room to work should I need to haul.
2. It leaves me room should I get yanked up if the leader falls. Less chance that the load will come onto the anchor.

I don't particularly want to see the anchor disturbed once it is set so if I am well below that high anchor that means that the anchor should stay set and undisturbed in any scenario. I've been known to climb up several metres to get a high piece in to ensure that my anchor is high. I think this is good policy. I hate crowded anchors. Of course this all depends doesn't it as to the availability of pieces.

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