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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Author

When is a rope to old???

garfus

3-Nov-2009
10:31:00 PM

I have a Mammut 11mm Dynamic rope that is 12 years old but was only used for the first two years of its
life mainly for top roping and low grade leads with no big falls. The rope has been stored in good
conditions and there are no obvious frays or defects on inspection. Question, is it to old to be used or not
? Cheers.

mattjr

3-Nov-2009
11:04:35 PM

Refer to previous threads on the same topic. Contact Mammut.

foreverabumbly

3-Nov-2009
11:26:31 PM

when it breaks....

seriously though, a rope has a recommended shelf life of 7ish years, I personally wouldnt lead on it but would top rope.

tastybigmac

3-Nov-2009
11:40:17 PM

some manufacturers say 5 years shelf life.

porkpie

4-Nov-2009
10:10:19 AM

Best to retire it. I will take it off your hands for free just mail it to me. I am a nice guy like that (and I love Mammut ropes).

BA

4-Nov-2009
10:54:02 AM

I've always thought a rope was "too old" when it wouldn't fit through a belaying device, which is why I carried a figure of eight as well (to extend its useful life).

Winston Smith

4-Nov-2009
12:14:29 PM

Generally a rope is considered too (to) old when it needs a Zimmer frame and it keeps forgetting how to remain tied into a figure-of-eight knot.

SummitSlag

5-Nov-2009
1:00:33 AM

i like how he disposes of the chalk bag when not needed anymore.buddy great climbing

Olbert

5-Nov-2009
10:03:55 AM

On 4/11/2009 Winston Smith wrote:
>Generally a rope is considered too (to) old when it needs a Zimmer frame
>and it keeps forgetting how to remain tied into a figure-of-eight knot.
Or refuses to untie completely

racingtadpole

5-Nov-2009
3:24:16 PM

I follow two edicts when it comes to service life of climbing equipment.

1. When in doubt chuck it out. The moment you question the integrity of your gear is the moment you should dispose of it.

2. A maximum working life of 10 years. Industrial rope access gear is very similar to climbing gear, so I apply the same lifespan to everything (unless manufacturer suggests otherwise).

End of the day there are a thousand schools of thought on this and it ultimately comes down to what you are comfortable with

egosan

6-Nov-2009
3:13:39 PM

The UIAA has something to say about this:

http://www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/files/1/About_Ageing_of_Climbing_Ropes.pdf

Summary:

Ropes break because people fall over sharp edges and dip them in acid, NOT because they
are old.

Enjoy,
Sol

There are 11 messages in this topic.