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Topic Date User

Cams Ripping At Arapiles - common? 14-Oct-2009 At 1:45:58 PM Richard

Message

>> 13.25/Metolius
>> 13.75/Wild Country
>> 14/Trango
>> 15/Black Diamond
>> 16/CCH Aliens

So what's that mean ? Should i buy Metolius or Aliens ??

I think these differences in angles make bugger all difference:

Angle: ---- Min coeffiecent that cam will hold:
13.25 ---- 0.24
13.75 ---- 0.24
14 ---- 0.25
15 ---- 0.27
16 ---- 0.29

Given the coefficient of friction can vary between 0 to over 1, a 0.05 difference between one brand and another is probably insignifficant.

>Don't make it more complicated than it is. All the above quote is saying
>is: if the rock is so slippery that you don't trust that your feet will
>stick, don't trust your cams to stick either!

I think that's a quite untrue test - the friction of rubber boots is likely to be a lot higher than metal - after all if that wasn't the case boots would have metal soles. The fact that cams are pulling also shows this there's an ability to climb on rock that won't hold a cam. I wish this was a simple test you could use, but I doubt it is.

Cheers