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Topic Date User

Overcammed cams pull out at araps 13-Oct-2009 At 5:32:49 PM robbio

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I Tried climbing "the rack" at Arapiles recently and got shot down. I took two falls before calling it quits. On my first try I while about two thirds up i took a fall on an orange alien which pulled out and smacked me in the eye.

On my second try i placed a small hex where the orange alien pulled out from (if only i'd done this in the first place), and placed a black metolius cam higher up. As i reached the jugs at the top, my tired arms gave way and fell, this time getting smacked in the nose by the metolius cam as it gave way. Luckily the hex held and kept me off the deck. Apart from being beaten up by my climbing gear, i was ok.

After inspecting both cams, it seems they were both overcammed. I was always under the impression that overcamming cams was not that bad, except that they may be near impossible to remove.

My questions are, what are your thoughts on overcammed cams, could it be that they are ok in general, but not so solid on glassy cracks like those found at arapiles?

Also, anyone else been hit in the face by their "protection"?