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Ulnar Nerve Entrapment 17-May-2012 At 10:56:23 AM dmnz

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I think I've narrowed it down to biomechanical issues due to muscle imbalances and postural maladaptations.

So I have to report back to those in a similar situation or who may be in the future from climbing and other activities if they do not take corrective actions now.

I've had a lot of time to think and research this talking to various people along the way.

But basically it boils down to biomechanics:
Think slouched, hunched climbers with basic biomechanical problems from overdeveloped pulling and pushing muscles in the upper body, namely the pec major (chest) and latissimus dorsi (pulling in the back) while the relative strength of and ability to activate things like their 'stablilisers' (think TA and glutes but also things like scapular retractors namely rhomboids, forearm extensors) lags behind. That is, overuse from climbing without a focus on making sure the opposing muscles stay strong enough to allow LONG TERM development.

Both pec major and latissimus dorsi attach to your humerus (upper arm) in pretty much the same place and internally rotate your arms and hence pull your shoulders forward til you get that rounded shoulder look. Then the overuse and imbalances manifest themselves differently in different people when you overload them with repetitive motion and your body breaks down somewhere. The problem site depends on the individual, the extent and specific nature of the individual's problem...for me it was the elbow, for others it may have been the rotator cuffs, back etc... and it's a long rehab process because all the imbalances were also 'learnt' over a long time.

Summary (for those who don't want to read the above):
1 problem is a biomechanical one:
from overuse/muscle imbalance (pec major and lats while the stabilisers have not developed to the same extent) and poor muscle activation patterns
2 then you overload it with repetitive motion
(for me, becoming fixated on a particular boulder problem/s that had similar moves)
THEN the body breaks down somewhere (in this case the elbow)

SOLUTION/PREVENTION : work the opposing muscles before you get injured so you dont get injured and so you can be a better climber in the long run

do targeted work on the rotator cuff muscles.scapular stabilisers.forearm extensors.glutes etc
HOT TIP...rowing, horizontal, think rowing machines seated rows etc are great so long as you initiate with the right muscles...surprisingly doing pull up holds at the top of the ROM also helps a lot as you HAVE to use your scapular stabilisers if you want to be able to stay up there. This will help by giving you more balance and a stronger base to use your big muscles, and even if it means you dont get injured and you can climb/train without as many breaks then you will get better anyway.