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Climbers rescued off Margarine Ridge, Mt Hay 10-Nov-2011 At 6:54:46 PM ecowain

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On 10/11/2011 aarond wrote:
>About the bad belay at the top of pitch 8,
>(i posted about this 12 months ago or so when i did the route) i don't
>know if we were off route but there was a bomber hidden thread inside that
>cave which was out of site but i managed to find it.
>on pitch 8 we went up the chimney for about maybe 20m until you could
>traverse off to the right on a chossy ledge, basically from there i headed
>about another 10m to the right and up about 2m into a little cave that
>only really fits one person in it for the belay.

I think this is the route that we've used in the past to avoid the sandy cave mentioned in the route description. If the little cave that you mention is the one I'm thinking of, then you climb a short off-width at about grade 12 above and end up on a big bushy ledge, and walk up and right to the last pitch. The rightwards traverse after part 1 of the chimney has some small cams from memory. This avoided doing the right angle turn back to the left (although it was possible to crawl around a little ledge to the sandy cave).