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Climbers rescued off Margarine Ridge, Mt Hay 9-Nov-2011 At 8:59:51 PM sbm

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On 9/11/2011 patto wrote:
>
>Grades are largely an indication of the technical challenge of the climbing
>moves involved. They generally do NOT involve other factors such as, degree
>of protection, difficulty to retreat from, total length, occasional chossiness,
>scub, hot weather, cold weather, long walk in, etc....
>
>If you are making your assessment on the suitability of the climb for
>your level of skill purely on the grade then you are making a very big
>mistake. Likewise you might have climbed 25 trad but jumping but a 400m
>grade 12 could have you horribly out of your depth.
>
>You need to assess the suitability of the climb for yourself. Its not
>about reading a number of a chart.

Well actually Ewbank said: "Grading takes the following into consideration. Technical difficulty, exposure, length, quality of rock, protection and other smaller factors." I thought MR was graded 16.

Didn't some other poor guy get helicoptered off MR last summer with a serious head/back injury after protection blew on a lead fall? It does seem like the climb is starting to get a bit of a reputation. I've actually looked at the description and had it pinned as long, committing, don't-fall trad with lots of choss that I probably shouldn't be attempting to climb yet.