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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

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Complete rupture of A2 pulley 28-May-2011 At 8:51:33 PM Dave.k

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Thanks for all the responses folks. Seems clear that pulling hard on a crimp or pocket is the most common cause and that it's A2's for everyone, usually with an audible pop!!

I've done milder A2s on both the index and ring, but never to the point of a popping sound or swelling. The index finger was diagnosed by the radiologist as tenosynovitis and took well over 6 months to get back to 80%. The mild tweak on the ring finger took about 4 months.

I think that it's good to keep climbing after the finger feels capable, but by "keep climbing" I mean it in the therapeutic sense (as it promotes increased blood flow). I was doing 1's (of boulder problems rated from 1 to 6) at the gym for 1 month, then 2's for 2 months, then slowly worked up to 3's. You have to be super conservative and realise that even the most moderate of tweaks takes 3-6 months. Plan a rehab process around that time period - not 10 days or 6 weeks.