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Something good from something bad 21-Mar-2011 At 7:28:17 AM skink

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Rope cut by sharp edge - questions asked - some answered

http://www.rockymountainrescue.org/osYellowSpurRopeFailure.php

Got me thinking a bit.

What I take away from this:

Think of consequences of your pro failing, especially if there are ledges with sharp edges about and/or on traversy terrain - your rope may not run where you think it will if a piece of pro pops.

When bolting a route or placing pro - will the location of the carabiner which catches your fall be subject to the rope-pinching mechanism which appeared to be a factor in the accident. This rope-pinching mechanism removes a lot of the shock absorbency from your system. Less shock absorbency means more tension in the rope between you and the piece catching you and more tension in the rope makes it more likely to cut on any sharpness it encounters. I sometimes see this on bolted routes - bolts on sloping ledges. If you use too short a draw, that doesn't extend beyond the edge, you not only get mega-rope-drag, but set your self up for a hard fall cos the rope can't run through the biner.

You can't beat double ropes but you look like a gumby if you use them on sport routes :o)