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Climber hit by Lightning - Pierces Pass 5-Jan-2011 At 11:14:59 AM Mark R

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So its a conundrum.

Advantages include the fact that you can register your device with AMSA... the body that receives the signal and activates a response... and you can log in and tell them exactly where and what you are doing with who... eg you could for example log in and record that you and 2 friends were going to climb for the day at the Glen, that you were experienced and well equiped (rock gear, singlet, heaps of bakery produce) and that you expected to be dogging Madge for the day. Then if your beacon is activated AMSA can call you (on the mobile number you have provided) and see if you need a rescue... if you dont answer they can call your relatives and in the meanwhile they can inform blue mountains police that you have activated your beacon and you are "dogging madge". Then if they do have the guidebook they should be with you lickedy quick (them or the sex crimes unit). This could be even more useful if youre on some big(gish) wall in the grose... (insert CAVEAT)

The thing is, remote is a matter of interpretation... is the grose remote? No, its right beside australias biggest city... or yes, it can sure feel like it when youve lost the pad you were on in a storm as darkness approaches... and plenty have come unstuck there.

For me the EPIRB is something I take on some trips.. usually longish multi pitch climbs not at the outer reaches of my climbing capacity that require full day or more approaches (Im thinking Frenchmans cap for example). It might get a look in at Buffalo if Im aiding (but Im hauling the kitchen sink so whats an extra 150g?). Its an adjunct. Its less important than my ability to not get lost (my compass comes on many more trips than my EPIRB) and MUCH less important than my climbing partner(s) and choosing them with the knowledge/expectation that they could keep it in a pile and effect a rescue for me and I for them. Self rescue is the most important skill. Not always possible... definitely. Serious injuries require a serious response. An EPIRB MIGHT expediate that (but as previously mentioned it doesnt describe the best route to a crag/climb, it wont tell them what pitch youre on and it doesnt change the fact that choppers dont fly in shit weather. Its probably worth noting that many traumatic deaths (about 50%) occur within minutes of the insult (EPIRB no use), many occur within the first hour (EPIRB probably no use for most of these if youre half way up a 300m cliff and theres not a nice big ledge cos a chopper will often not be able to access you and a rap in while just see the minutes then hours while away). After the first 1-2 hrs if youre still alive you usually will be until infection gets you in a day or 3... an EPIRB will certainly bring comfort eventually. So an EPIRB is probably most useful on single or short multi pitches... when I for one am least likely to have it.

To those who say you should have one... sweet, fill your boots. But be aware there are SERIOUS limitations... an EPIRB does not rescue you and will not perform life saving surgery. Rely on developing good skills, good judgment (which may or may not come with experience) and a when the moneys down a bit of grit, desperation and luck (probably in about that order). Learn first aid. Also... Ill say this once... a cold night on a cliff is not a life threatening emergency in 99.9% of cases (like in a blizzard on the side of geryon in winter)... it can be quite good for the sole (and murder for your ass). Dont be afraid to sit still, suffer then work it out the next morning if no one is hurt.

For those who think theyre a waste of time... sweet, I have one but probably only use it once a year if that... so maybe youre right. But if someone gets smashed up on a mountain I would have the option of seeking assistance while I (or my partner) initiate appropriate actions.

None of us are immune from accident or injury. MANY very very experienced climbers have died climbing (mostly on mountains). Preparation is multi layered. EPIRBS will not stop us looking like thrill seekers to the general public. They will not help us to be understood. Why would we want to be? On the vast majority of occasions the most dangerous aspect of our sport/past time remains the drive to the crag.

Enjoy.
Mark
(Puts soap box back in cupboard and returns to the coffee machine).. oh yeah, Wendy, can you ask Gris to roast me some more beans for the weekend?