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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Topic Date User
Open slings and rubber rings 18-Jun-2010 At 6:10:53 PM another dave
Message
>Recently I used revolver krabs on long dyneema slings on a couple of multipitch
>climbs. My second informed me that they had rotated after I had moved on,
>such that the revolver end was at the sling end rather than the rope end
>as intended. I have since put them on nylon slings and 'captured' them
>in place with rubber 'O' rings. If they manage to rotate again, I shall
>be clove hitching them*!!
I did the same thing it solved the problem.

By the way guys it is also possible to unclip a biner from a sling that is not held in place by a rubber band. Though the risk is probably smaller it is still there.
Fact is clipping is more convenient with the rubber band.
Also it is not all together unheard of for straight gates to unclip due to weird directional forces of the rope. There was a post here not that long ago where a bolt below the one that held unclipped in a fall.

So the best solution is to have a second piece of gear between you and the ground.

As a possible solution to the sling problem - picture this. Lay your sling on the ground a biner at each end pull them tight so both strands are touching. Then sticky tape both of those strands together so the only loops in the sling are where the biners are. Then if one biner flips and goes to clip another strand it would clip both.
This should allow the climber to do the standard three to one shortening trick for easier racking.
Obviously sticky tape is not the ideal stuff to use its just all I could think of. Perhaps sewing thread.
Another issue is that it is no longer a handy dandy 60cm sling for slinging stuff.

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