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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

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Factor 2 20-Apr-2010 At 7:53:42 PM PATW

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>The belayer should be in full control here.
>If the leader won't put in that piece of "JESUS" gear just pull on the reins and stop >them climbing.
>If climbing with a newbie, set that 1st piece while building the anchor.
>I try to build a multi-point anchor above the belay and use it as a pulley point. This >way the 2nd already has the critical 1st piece in when swinging leads.

I like your suggestion kayakerSteve. One of the hard things about trying to coach an inexperienced climber is doing it in a way that takes care of the essentials for safety but doesn't involve constant critique/suggestions/nagging to the point that it detracts from the enjoyment of the climb. It's nice to be encouraging and allow a new leader to climb with confidence and find "the stoke" on lead for themselves. Placing Jesus beforehand means one less thing to nag about as they set off.

In this case, of course it would have been a good idea to pull up and insist that my fearless leader stop and put that piece in. Another mistake was that I also had the opportunity to tell her "DO NOT FALL!" as she started to look sketchy. It was obvious that the cam placement was pretty bogus. Instead I said something foolishly encouraging like "Alright, just go. Keep moving. I've got you". I honestly didn't think she was going to come off. Ha!

There's a strong case for belayers delivering the awful truth to a climber leading into a dangerous situation rather than keeping up the "yeah, you can do it" stuff. Always better to rationally consider the risks than blindly forge on.

Ya live an learn, eh?