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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

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Nasty biner flip ‘n’ unclip warning! 8-Dec-2009 At 10:10:00 AM mikepatt

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Black diamond outlined their biner direction decision in a catalogue 3(?) years ago.

I like to have my draws with opposing biners for clipping bolt plates; I clip the nose thru the top of the bolt plate then rotate the top biner so that the spine is against the rock (with 45 degree plates)

I heard a few people talk about rotating the rope end biner but remember the that biner has been specifically designed for the rope to fall over the wide bottom bit (if that makes sense)

I've also got a few old petzl rubber bits which keep the rope biner positioned on the draw.

It's often difficult when onsighting to predict the left/right direction you'll take after a clip. Sometimes I'll reclip; often I just climb on.. it's interesting to watch a 'correctly' clipped biner flip over against the rock (i.e. horizontally) and end up as back clipped.

a screw gate or two certainly helps..