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Ankles busted in the Bluies 23-Apr-2009 At 1:18:24 PM muki

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On 23/04/2009 rolsen1 wrote:
>On 22/04/2009 bomber pro wrote:
>>As i stated before, the safest option is to fit the prussic above the
>>device, this catches any error in
>>threading the device.
true
>On 21/04/2009 wallwombat wrote:
>>I had a friend who dislodged a large rock while abseiling in a canyon.
>>It broke his right collar bone. None of those things you mentioned would
>>have helped him. If he hadn't been using a french prussick as a back
>up,
>>I would now have one less friend.
also true, thankfully
>So you dislodge a rock onto your partner's head knocking him/her out (even
>though they're wearing a helmet).

never happened yet, but possible.

>You manage to get down to them.

Well if I was above dislodging the rock, then there are a few alternatives.
1: rescue haul from above to get him/her to where I am, then descend together.

>You clip yourself directly to their belay loop using a short sling

2: down prussic to him/her and connect with more than one point ! its called redundancy.

>so you can control the descent continuing the rap on their belay device.

3:install extra friction to compensate the extra load on the rappel.

>But they've use a top pussick and you can't reach it and control the brake
>rope at the same time.

4:I have arrived on prussic, therefore I can use these as anchor points to create a haul system to
either unload their device and re-rig my own, or disconnect any gear that hinders my rescue.
I would indeed be running an auto block back up for the rappel using a french prussic above my
device.
I can't understand why you think it would be out of reach, when I would be arriving from above ?

>With an auto block you would be able to use this
>approach to get them down.

an auto block is just any device that locks the load automatically when a load is applied !
Important to note, not all these auto blocks are easily releasable once loaded with two body weights !

>Or do you do something else in this situation with a top prussick?

As I said there are many options and I always look for the safest, most straight forward and fastest
method when involved in a rescue.