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Topic Date User

Ankles busted in the Bluies 22-Apr-2009 At 4:30:52 PM muki

Message

On 22/04/2009 orwell wrote:
>Why not just use a fricken autoblock/prussic(k)/shunt above or below the primary device?

A prussic fitted above will hold a mis-threaded belay device failure.

PB wrote
>Well the results are in and it seems that an autoblock will not work if only one strand is clipped
>through the abseil device biner.

this failure was when the prussic was fitted below the device, as one strand runs up and the other
down, disrupting the grab function of the prussic.
As i stated before, the safest option is to fit the prussic above the device, this catches any error in
threading the device.
As pointed out by a very astute climber earlier.....

>How hard is it to get a 60cm sling, wrap it around the rope a few times
>and loop one end up through the other and clip into the friggen end.

Well said WW, my sentiments exactly !