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Topic Date User

The 9-Feb-2009 At 11:07:53 PM cuja

Message

Once again from me . I would try to explain my statment. If at the end of this post will be not my original post than you can find it on UK climbing forum.

First of all I am realy sorry for things happen and that is the last what I have in my minds. I was tryng whole my carrier in climbing to promote sport and establish a good routes.
Why am only me on web and in conversation? Because my partner is not so much PC freak and he got his e mail a few days ago.
Now some more abaout all of this, I will try to answer on some comments from my post on UK:
1.We do not received any sponsorship for the bolts for this trip. What mr. Carter find is no in connection with our trip.
2. I have not say that we ask for opinion mr. Hayland. It was mentioned only that we was hosted by him ( unbelivable friendly ) and I was say that to ilustrate that we have feel some responsibility / respect for this hosting. Means we do not have in minds nothing wrong , illegal because of this.
3. Maybe is deffinitley irrelevant in whole story but after also hunderds of times analysing this famous dinner I can not remember any clear warnings. I can swear so one day will be judged...
4. Appologise to mr. Carter regarding 9mm bit. It was written somewhere but probably I was automaticaly connest with his name.
5. Regarding hardest part: I was belaying on a ledge before hardest and longest pitch . I can not see Ivica on crux. He say , he is making it arraound 6b+. I belive. I only remember that I was comming from bottom and need to treverse from left to right arraound last bolt before not more vertical ( sorry I can not find proper words) terrain . There was some grass too. I was trying little bit , rain was starting and I was ask Ivica for help. I grab express probably but maybe ( I was think after UK forum abaout that once more ) not ( I usualy do not that way ) , more close I was unclipp and Ivica help me with pulling up. So me personaly have no expirience with grade of the crux.
6. Motivation ? For some of them poor. For me personaly : Why poor ? Because we want to climb a new route on every continent ? What abaout Pou brothers ? Seven summiters ? Climbing higher grades ? Everybody has his own story and motivation
7. Abaout informing by locals : You have right maybe , or better you need to be right.
Maybe this will not excuse us from your point of view, but all over the world is the same . In Croatia we have this all the time with Italians , Austrians , Hungarians. Everybody first climb and call later.
Do I need to call every local climber ? Who are locals in one area? We was in company with some of them , we have showed where we intend to climb ( please do not come back to who was say something ).
8. Regarding topo and my message to mr. Carter is right but all the time I need to explain our feeling abaout that. Means : we have seen that we can drill faster , we put bolts in and hang from them , rappel on them ( many times in soft limestone I have the same situation ). Where we have seen that one of them was bad we fix situation with third on belay or bolt another one. To report abaout soft rock ? you know that , you know Piercess Pass . That was reason why I have mentioned 8mm Raumer bolts expecting reaction on that fact ( not blaming mr. Carter for any responsibility ). For the rest, because we do not try to pull them out we do not feel at that moment that we have craating anything so dangerous . I was belive Ivicas judgement because most of the bolts he was put. Now I was see ...
9. We do not put bolts in soft sandstone. We have climb a lot of new short and long sport routes in Croatia . We have climb clasical aid on Grenland , Chile , trad in Sichuan , Mali...

So If this help it was a little explanation of our view . It will definitley as any other conversation not bring back this young guy. I am very sorry and these days I am realy not sleep well.
I was find some answers from this all . We have make some mistakes maybe but definitley not planned and not because we do not respect Australian climbers.

Please understand me and doi not expect any other post from me ( you can contact for opinion my partner too ) . Not because I am coward , just because I do not like them - specialy not for lynch. Whole situation push me now on some explanations.

If this help I will repeat that I am very sorry . I would like to say thanks to mr. Hayland family and appologise for possible incovenience and to mr. Carter too because I was all the time just try to explain our way of thinking maybe different from that one in Australia .
Boris Cujic - Croatia