Doing a TMC simply opens the door to gaining more experience (with your climbing partner(s) rather than a guiding company...). We all have to start somewhere as we aren't born as alpinists, so the smart climber will gain their knowledge and experience gradually over a period of years or even decades, before tackling some of the harder, longer, more technical and sometimes more dangerous routes. Everyone decides...the first time I attempted Cook was about 5 years after I did my TMC and about 3 trips to NZ...we backed of the Linda Glacier route half way up...just before the Linda Shelf, purely because we knew we were too slow, carried too much gear and didn't really feel confident about going solo at that point...so would have been tempted to cross the Linda Shelf whilst still roped up and using no running belays...the golden NO NO of alpine climbing..funny thing is all my close calls in the hills haven't even been on the snow and ice, but the nasty moraine and scree on the walk outs, with rockfall being the biggest danger by far...!!!
Steve |