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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

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Lucky 17-Mar-2008 At 2:29:49 PM qman

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Double ropes would not have helped.

The pitch was about grade 19 the first half is a relatively straightforward steming and layback climbing (unusal for wanaka).

The route is very well bolted (not unsual for wanaka).
The peice that came out was a 2 handed jug, which i cranked on layback style to reach a higher hold. This move obviously puts a fair bit of force on one hold, far more than doing the same thing in a steming position.

The bolt was relatively well located for the fall and my fall was pretty clean.

Maybe i trusted the rock to much or shouldve found a more delicate way to do the move but the pro and the climbing were very good.

The climber in the photo is top roping the same route. I was leading and the route is fairly direct with a slight arc to it.