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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

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My ground fall in the Gramps 22-Jul-2003 At 6:32:31 PM fruityarse

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Once again, I want to stress my little experience in trad gear placement.

However....

IMHO, weight plays a very large part not so much with gear placement, but more so with gear holding. Devil's advocate - place a piece of pro and let it sit on its own - provided it is a good placement it will hold. Now gradually increase the weight placed on it and it may / may not walk, may / may not pop. Of course, many other factors come into play here - BUT - my point is simply that there is less strain and stress on a placement when a 65 or 70 kg climber falls as opposed to an 80kg climber. Keep in mind that this is not a static weight either - momentum is also involved with the fall which would also affect the placement.

For those of us around or over that weight - larger is meant in comparison to most climbers ;)