Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Topic Date User

Accident at climbing gym 19th May 21-Jan-2006 At 2:12:53 PM alrob

Message

On 5/10/2005 climbingjac wrote:
>On 4/10/2005 Rich wrote:
>>One reason for not reclipping top ropes into the draws is cos it's bloody
>>annoying unlcipping them if you're leading. This is one major gripe i
>have
>>with cliffhanger, besides the general lack of lead routes, the major
>ame
>>wall requires you to unclip then clip.. f--- it sucks..Then you have
>to
>>reclip on the way down again.. Nothing worse then pumping out trying
>to
>>unclip a #$% top rope..
>
>Hi Richo, how are you?
>
>Some people may find the process of tying in, or paying attention while
>belaying annoying also, but we go along with these annoyances as they are
>a necessary evil.
>
>I would hazard a guess that more people toprope than lead at Nunawading.
> As such I just don't get why the system in place doesn't help prevent
>them from kicking each other in the head during falls/swings. During a
>recent visit, I personally collided with 3 different people - at their
>head height. While I anticipated the swing and warned the person, the
>newbies don't seem to put two and two together and realise it would be
>wise to duck. But I just don't think they should have to be constantly
>on the lookout for the need to duck.

its a catch 22 situation where there can be no right answer really. hardrock DID originally have 3 draws for each rope on the articulating wall taped with green, and instructions at the base of the wall to re-clip these. however i think they found that people were probably unable to reclip the first draw. from memory it was located in the steepest part of the overhang at the bottom. But many people were unable to pull themsleves under to clip it. hence, all 3 draws were seldom clipped anyway.

Leaders hate having to unclip a rope to clip another in (I know i do). Noobs love the big swing when they peel off, but the rest of us hate them for their stupidity.

Rich is right, the AME wall is a pain in the ass. Its the steepest wall with the hardest routes, what noob is gonna head up it anyway? I think it should be a lead only wall. I don't see the point in not being prepared to train on lead on that wall, but being prepared to work a hard route outdoors on lead. Obviously, the people who climb on that wall are gonna be pretty strong, not to mention experienced. Why toprope?, when we need to train our minds to deal with leading outdoors anyway.