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Ankle reco. 27-Jul-2018 At 5:33:14 AM Stugang

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Good luck with the rehab.

Late in the previous millennium I had to have my left ankle put together again after an accident (roped climbing not boulder) Still got a few staples holding things together.

For me the big things in recovery were the stiffness and also the loss of confidence in my ankles ability to absorb a shock or fall if something sudden happened. The two are related but the loss of confidence persisted for long after the logical part of my brain knew the ankle had recovered sufficient strength and flexibility.

I reckon I had adequate strength and flexibility within 6 to 9 months but it was at least two years before I stopped feeling stiffness when doing even mundane daily activities. During that time I remember getting mentally shut down on warm up boulder problems as soon as they got a bit high. Also during that time as soon as I tried hard moves requiring footwork my left always felt like a bit of a club. Once again I think that feeling was as much or more mental as physical. I could push through it if it was just a move but as soon as I got even a hint my ankle could explode again- I clammed up.

Full flexibility has never recovered but somewhere in the zawn between now and 2 years after the accident i arrived at a place where I rarely think about it.....apart from when a mosquito lands directly on top of one of the staples in my ankle bone and I jump around screaming like a screaming jumping thing.
Cheers stu