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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Topic Date User
St Peters Gym accident 11-Feb-2017 At 7:56:22 AM freesolo
Message
as for the idea of taking a few steps back from the wall when climber is 4 pieces in, i have always done this, and of course, those who don't think about it, will criticize.
1. way easier to see what's happening. if you are in a cave, and the climber is above and behind you, your brain is a bit slower to 'see' the situation. left is right, right is left when the climber is progressing. better to turn so your view is un-impeded and step 2 steps out, especially if routes wander 'sideways' on vertical walls; also if there is a bulge and the leader is over it, you can't see what they are doing at all from next to the rock.
2. my legs are stronger than my back. which means, if i need to step in quickly, my leg muscles can handle the force and change of direction much better than my spine. if you are next to the rock, the leader falls, you will NEVER end up farther from the rock. you will be sucked into the rock with no muscle mass to help absorb the jerk. (the first time this happened to me was the last, way too painfull) even one step away from the rock puts your whole body in a better position to absorb, and (from #1) see what happened to the leader.
3. the two extra meters a leader will fall because you are 1.9 meters out from the wall may of course cause them to hit a ledge or something, but that is a less likely scenario, than you being crunched upward against the wall and letting go of your brake hand. (i have seen this in person at least 6 times; one occasion leader hit the ground and broke his pelvis; another both feet multiple fractures and surgeries)
4. MOST IMPORTANT if the leader is struggling to clip, drops the rope, pulls up rope again, etc... which has happened to all of us, i can quick step back and forth way faster than i can give out or take up slack, and my HANDS are never off the rope. very, very, very few belayers are so good they and keep up with a leader clipping, dropping, pulling up for re-try, such that the rope out is exactly what's needed to clip AND prevent long fall. (none of this is applicable on multi-pitch walls where you are belaying from only one static position; and for gear leads, zipper piece is essential regardless of where you stand)

as for what happened to the climber OP who was injured, sorry as hell it happened. glad you are recovering; may i suggest open ocean swim competitions: way less shock loading to your skeleton )))

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