Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries
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|Near miss abseiling
||4-Sep-2016 At 8:04:58 AM
|On 29/08/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 29/08/2016 simey wrote:
>>Keen to know if anyone else has an opinion as I would like to know how
>>many stars we should give it in the next guide.
>Grantoss and I went up to Rosea in May hoping that it would be drier than
>Northern Gramps (it wasn't), and the whole crag looks overgrown and in
>serious need of attention. Seriously, even the classics of Rosea look a
>whole lot less than classic at the moment.
>Maybe the Nati crowd who are psyched on the "approachability" of routes
>could take a break from sinking retrobolts into obscure crap at Araps and
>go on a lichen brushing mission to Rosea?
I remember that weekend. It was pissing down everywhere. I have no idea what made you think that going to one of the higher altitude crags, further south, in the centre of a mountain range might possibly lead to better climbing conditions.
I did Debutante and Dianne last summer and they were pretty much as I remembered them from 1st doing them 20 years ago. There's no shortage of dodgy rock and the odd tree but no lichen to speak of. Maybe looking at a crag in the pouring rain makes it look like crap?Or the same mental failing that lead to you being there in the rain impeded your guidebook reading - there is a lot of choss between the routes there.
Although I've never done Martin Eden because the start is slabby moss covered nonsense and has been for the same 20 years. I've never done Mixed Climb because it looked like crap compared to the harder routes there.
Maybe Rosea is only worth going to if you are confident on at least old school 19? Actually Heretic and Bubble-Dinosaur gully are pretty good. Make that old school 17. I'd be all for a few anchors going in at the top of the best climbing on a few things though - like under the rock scar above the Ascension and replacing burnt out and dodgy old rap trees.
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