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Booroomba accident 16-May-2016 At 4:14:59 PM widewetandslippery

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On 16/05/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 16/05/2016 Dane wrote:
>>I can't think of many places up there that you couldn't bail off safely
>>with a couple of draws, or a slung tree... and you can get to the top
>of
>>anything if you want to rap in to clean it.
>
>This is pretty spot on, and something I did quite a bit at Booroomba when
>I was young.
>
>>Most times I've been up there I've found at least one other group, so
>>it's still seeing traffic
>
>When I started in the mid 90s, you'd see at least ten climbers out there
>most good weekends.
>>
>>As for not knowing from the ground, here's a cheat sheet:
>>
>>Is it on the slabs? -> It's a slab, pro will be sparse if it exists
>at
>>all.
>
>Generally true, but there are some notable exceptions
>
>>Is it a crack? -> You should be ok, but it will probably have blank bits.
>
>Generally not true. Most of the cracks have pro all the way, most of them
>now also have bushes all the way due to lack of traffic (except for the
>ones which have been dug out so that we can write them up as being good).
>
>>Is it known as a good beginners lead? -> Probably good pro, but it might
>>be a sandbag.
>>Is it known for a run out? -> Really? If you have to ask, you probably
>>should skip it.
>>Is any pro listed in the guide? -> If you don't have it, it'll be run
>>out.
>>Are bolts mentioned?
>>- is it a sport line? -> probably well bolted.
>>- is it a mixed line? -> probably a little run out.
>>- are they the anchors? -> I hope you find them, there's probably
>>nothing else up there to belay off.
>
>Agree with all that...most of the "sport lines" will cause Blueys sport
>climbers to pack hard shit.
>>
>>What info is withheld? You have all the same info we've all had, and
>more
>>than the FA.
>
>I think there is room for improvement and finding a balance between the
>existing guidebook and a "full blow by blow". For instance, we're trying
>to remove all of the bullshit "climb up to obvious tree" type navigation.
>The obvious tree probably burnt down, and it's only obvious which tree
>is meant after the fact. There are a bunch of routes that I've finally
>worked out after rap exploration days. After 20 years of climbing there,
>having a momont of "so that's where that fuching thing actually goes!"
>tells me that the existing description may not be quite up to scratch.
>
>>If you want specific info then ask around. There are a lot
>>of people willing to tell you what to add to your rack, join you, show
>>you around, or whatever else it is that you want
>
>This is a pretty important point. I gained a lot of info on routes by
>word of mouth, and I reckon a lot of the "minimal guidebook" crowd did
>the same. Is there any difference between experienced locals handing out
>verbal tips, or just printing those tips in a book?

Last point first, to a certain extent yes. Lots of that info you got was by learning the crag as well. As a blow in not knowing too much about routes done ground up keeps the flavour. Most of the classics, to my knowledge were nott pre inspected mixed routes. In which case giving the repeat climber the knowledge of the FA is fair play. Good detailed route descriptions that acurratly show the line and info onthe best links of pitches on routes is good to. Yes most of the sport climbs are sporting. Telling someone how not to die on possum or hermes is reasonable, so is giving a decent description to start determinant. Look forward to the book.