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Topic Date User

Rescued in Blue Mountains May 31, the analysis 4-Jul-2015 At 5:46:57 PM DMWdesign

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On 29/06/2015 patto wrote:
>Inexperienced abseilers are the last people who should be using an autoblock.
> If there are inexperienced abseilers in a party they should have a backup
>from another person either a top or bottom belay.

Yes, I agree.
Beginners should learn good solid abseiling skills before going on to using back-up methods.
Re backing up abseils, the following comments relate to my canyoning experience, not climbing, but may still be relevant to the discussion.
I have never used backups, below or above descender, as they are too fiddly to manage, hindering maneuverability and just not practical when negotiating sharp overhangs, chockstones and narrow places. Not to mention potentially dangerous in waterfalls.
Rule 1: never let go of the rope.
Rule 2: never let go of the rope.
Extending the descender is fine on straightforward abseils but I find that closer to the body the descender is, the more manageable it is. This is critical on overhangs.

Depending on how risk adverse one is, I think there is a case for back-up on long exposed abseils with the possibility of rock fall and where belaying from below is difficult.
If I am the first down an abseil, I usually just lock-off the descender to untangle ropes but having an autoblock below descender (as in photo) is easier. (350mm x 6mmØ sling fully wrapped on double 9mm ropes). I have found this leg loop arrangement has also worked well on knot passing practice. On a lot of the latest harnesses it’s not that easy to effectively rig the autoblock onto the leg loop because of the way the straps are arranged.

Best practice is to always use the fireman’s belay, but I think we can all get a bit slack at times and be distracted by talking, taking photos and trying to stay out of that freezing cold pool.