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Hurt Elbow. Need Advice.

wallwombat

9-May-2015
5:59:01 PM

Over a month ago, while helping a friend cut wood, I lifted a log and felt a twinge in my elbow. I didn't think much of it at the time but, later noticed that it was quite sore.

Well, it's still sore and hurts quite a bit when I make a fist or grasp anything.

Strangely enough it doesn't hurt if I crimp (tested it on my hangboard).

I took some anti-inflammatories and haven't climbed since I hurt it but it doesn't seem to be getting any better.

Anyone have any ideas what I have done?

If I feel my elbow the pain is quite localised in one small spot on the outside of my elbow.

dhunchak

9-May-2015
10:30:40 PM

On 9/05/2015 wallwombat wrote:

>
>Anyone have any ideas what I have done?

Lateral epicondylitis. Maybe. Consult a doctor?

Wendy

10-May-2015
5:51:46 AM

Seeing as you can identify an acute onset, it might not be the usual tendonitis/osis. Over use injuries come from just that, not a one off incident. Usual recommendation to see a real doctor or physio.

wallwombat

10-May-2015
12:15:43 PM

This sounds implausible but after reading some stuff on Dave McLeod's site and Dr Julian's site and getting some advice from some climber friends on Facebook, I did a few sets of eccentric wrist curls (medium pain) and some deep tissue massage around the tendon (medium pain ++). I went to bed and woke up with almost a 90% improvement. Yesterday I couldn't pick up a cup of coffee without pain. Today there is almost no pain at all.

I will continue to do the exercises and see how I go but at the moment the prognosis is good.

capt_planit

11-May-2015
11:35:49 AM

Yep, My elbows require constant fiddly workouts to keep them going. I do a variety of curls and rotations with light barbells (4 kg). I also reel a very light weight up a metre long bar (I hold one end, two fisted, weight suspended at other), then reel it out. Works a treat, but even small injuries seem to knock the stuffin out of them now. I barndoored off a single finger jam and smacked the left one hard enough to draw blood at the crag during the week. End of climbing for that day and four days later it still aches, although the surface damage is long healed. It can take months for the exercises to have effect. Back off or change periodicity and type of exercise if the condition appears to worsen.

Dennsch

8-Nov-2015
6:08:13 PM

Hey guys, I had bad elbows after climbing for a while and recently found these things called frogfingers. Did wonders for me, basically it's this rubber thing that you put on your fingers and it adds some resistance when opening your hand. Here's a link: http://frogfingers.weebly.com/
Hope that helps

Duang Daunk

8-Nov-2015
6:37:27 PM

There is a silicon putty product that does the same thing, but in wallywombatbro's case he prolly needs a teaspoon of cement and get out on roped climbs again instead of pretending he's a boulderer cos adventure is more rewarding and less intense on his aging body.
simey on the other hand should stick with bouldering at Araps because he's more likely to get to meet chicks enroute to the crag that way.

gov junky

10-Nov-2015
7:27:41 PM

Dr Lisa Erikson - The climbing doc

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLlXlAtSkGibABoY5DXPMwg

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