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Topic Date User

Stop saying 15-Jan-2015 At 3:48:10 PM hangdog

Message

On 15/01/2015 Justcameron wrote:
>With regard to communicating when voice doesn't work my general practice
>is as follows:
>
>- When climbing with a new partner, do some pitches where communication
>is easy first.
>- Understand what the leader and belayer are doing
>- Leader climbs, regularly pausing to place protection.
>- Leader reaches belay ledge, pauses for several minutes to build a belay
>- Belayer waits patiently, recognises that leader is stationary
>- Leader builds anchor, clips in, yells "Geoff I'm SAFE"
>- Belayer hears nothing, keeps rope in belay device. Knows leader has
>been standing still for a while though. Knowing pitch length also is evidence
>that leader is at the belay
>- Leader prepares belay device on anchor
>- Leader starts pulling rope up very fast
>- Belayer pays all rope out through belay device, but the evidence is
>pointing to the fact that the leader is safe and pulling up rope. Or otherwise
>the leader is running across a field dragging the rope.
>- Rope comes tight on belayer's harness, belayer yells "Cameron that's
>me"
>- Leader hears nothing, but immediately puts rope in belay device. Calls
>"Geoff you're on belay"
>- Belayer hears nothing but the evidence is pointing towards him being
>on belay.
>- Belayer takes rope out of belay device carefully (as already described
>by other posters above.) If the device can't be removed, it can stay in
>the system with no ill effects.
>- Belayer calls "I'm climbing Cameron" - leader doesn't hear.
>- Belayer takes one step forward/upwards and rope gets taken in immediately.
>- Evidence points to belayer being on belay. At worst we are simul climbing.

Absolutely spot on