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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

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Topic Date User

Stop saying 15-Jan-2015 At 3:12:06 PM Justcameron

Message

With regard to communicating when voice doesn't work my general practice is as follows:

- When climbing with a new partner, do some pitches where communication is easy first.
- Understand what the leader and belayer are doing
- Leader climbs, regularly pausing to place protection.
- Leader reaches belay ledge, pauses for several minutes to build a belay
- Belayer waits patiently, recognises that leader is stationary
- Leader builds anchor, clips in, yells "Geoff I'm SAFE"
- Belayer hears nothing, keeps rope in belay device. Knows leader has been standing still for a while though. Knowing pitch length also is evidence that leader is at the belay
- Leader prepares belay device on anchor
- Leader starts pulling rope up very fast
- Belayer pays all rope out through belay device, but the evidence is pointing to the fact that the leader is safe and pulling up rope. Or otherwise the leader is running across a field dragging the rope.
- Rope comes tight on belayer's harness, belayer yells "Cameron that's me"
- Leader hears nothing, but immediately puts rope in belay device. Calls "Geoff you're on belay"
- Belayer hears nothing but the evidence is pointing towards him being on belay.
- Belayer takes rope out of belay device carefully (as already described by other posters above.) If the device can't be removed, it can stay in the system with no ill effects.
- Belayer calls "I'm climbing Cameron" - leader doesn't hear.
- Belayer takes one step forward/upwards and rope gets taken in immediately.
- Evidence points to belayer being on belay. At worst we are simul climbing.