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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Topic Date User
Fuching loose shit at point perp this weekend 2-Oct-2014 At 10:17:28 AM PThomson
On 2/10/2014 climberman wrote:
>On 1/10/2014 ropedonkey wrote:
>PThompson - what went wrong to lead to that event?

Monty's original post about it is here:

But the relevant excerpt is:

An American climber (with 8 years climbing experience) was attempting a trad route on the far left end of the Bayside area *. It involved a 30m rap in to a small ledge. His partner (an Italian) chose to leave the rap rope in place. The leader launched up a juggy crack - got to about 6m up and broke a handhold. He had placed no gear at that point. He fell off, landing on the ledge with one leg causing a very nasty compound fracture and dislocation of one ankle. A lot of blood. Lucky for them they still had the rap rope in place! The belayer prussiced up to the top and ran for help (finding me and others).

I might be wrong, but looking at the route description in the guide, and from my memories of the day, the actual route in question started from a semi-hanging belay a bit up from the ledge to avoid the superchoss (sort of like Werner Berner) and that the climbers accidently rapped past the belay to ledge (just like I did on Werner Berner) and subsequently had to free-solo unprotected up bad rock to get back on-route.

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