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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

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Ground fall at St Peters monday night 23-Aug-2014 At 11:08:13 AM JMK

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I have been dropped in the gym as well - belayer was doing her usual 2 finger hold of the rope. She was much better after that. This was some 20 years ago now.

Having just returned from Europe I have to say I have never seen so many accidents waiting to happen. 2 finger belaying, dropping the belay side, holding the 2 ropes lightly together above the belay device etc etc. the problem was these looked like "experienced" climbers. This bad technique was interspersed with generally good form. I guess if you have been doing the wrong thing for years and never had an "accident " you think your technique is good. However, the thing about belaying is that it is the safety net for the leader's mistakes (assuming gear holds).

I reckon the reason more accidents don't happen is because you need the bad technique to coincide with an unexpected fall by the leader and they are on the deck. So most people get away with bad technique as most people don't fall unexpectedly as there is usually a "watch me" said. But that is not the point- belayers should not need to be warned, even if they are looking down or around , solid technique will hold the rope. Luck should not be a part of belaying.

My point then is check your partners technique and don't assume that because they never dropped you their form is good.