Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Topic Date User

2013.06.02: Another El Cap death 5-Jun-2013 At 12:42:52 PM White Trash

Message

On 5/06/2013 gfdonc wrote:
>On 5/06/2013 White Trash wrote:
>>tie off short each time and take falls piece
>>to piece (possibly removing some them as I go),
>
>Wow, you're brave. Take falls with no-one belaying you? Good luck with
>that.
>
>I was thinking the best option would be to downclimb to the last piece,
>tie off to it (gulp) and try to build an anchor, then rap back down the
>rope, cleaning (if practical) as you went.
>
>But then you're stuck half-way up a wall with no rope to get down with.
> And the anchor you just built is more than half a rope-length above you.
> Cute huh?
>
sorry, you might have misread what i was trying to say. downclimbing is the prefer method always, and where this not possible then i would consider pulling up any remaining slack tying off short and dropping off whatever holds i was on to be caught by next piece. would be like a bungy jump depending on landing below yes? it is all theoreticla as i dont know the route or what it involves and it might be quite slabby. it would be a problem having to do this from last piece to the belay and prusik definitely needed.
actually thinking it more, would only need to do this till protection piece located below half rope out, then rap remaining distance (still relying on original belay anchor), so could pull the rope to retrieve when back at belay.
if was a long multipitch then saving gear for anchors and rope for lowering partner would be premium.