Hmm i dont think the whole ATC argument holds up.
Sport climbers know how to give a dynamic belay(jumping) to give a soft catch.
Trad climbers dont catch many falls, hence don't give a dynamic belay. Give them ATCs.
Ive seen ankle busting catches on ATC's, and been caught on grigris on RP's and not been concerned.
As with everything, including fall factors etc, its good to realise how many different ways energy can be dispersed. Also ways to decrease the peak impact force by giving a soft catch! |