On 15/01/2013 bones wrote:
>When you put it like that it's obvious, but sometimes, particularly in
>alpine climbing, I may do some unroped scrambling pitches, or simulclimbing
>without much gear, to save time. Also, I often disassemble the anchor at
>the top of a climb instead of staying roped until I know what the scramble
>off might be.
>All these accidents feed into an overall risk assessment when weighing
>up speed against safety..
I've done that too in the moutains, but up there speed is a form of safety.
On cruisey 2 pitch climb at Piddo, speed doesn't lead to safety, and so I would say that not using a 3 piece anchor is a poor decsion.
To Rock Turtle, thanks for posting up. I've had a big groud fall in the past and I found that getting my head back into the game took ages. But I did, and I learned from my mistakes, so now I'm climbing safer and harder than ever. I hope that you find the same when your recovery is over and you get back onto the rock. |