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Climber injured in bluies after 30m fall 2/Jan/13 15-Jan-2013 At 12:52:11 PM simey

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On 15/01/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 15/01/2013 Sabu wrote:
>>Yep thank you very much for sharing Rock Turtle. A lesson and reminder for us all.
>
>What's the lesson?

I tend to agree ODH. I don't think there has been much reflection and analysis of this accident to fully understand the series of minor events that have led to this mishap. Without wanting to sound like a sanctimonious prick (as we all make mistakes), I can identify a few things...

Rock Turtle says in first post...
>We consider ourselves pretty experienced climbers with 8 years outdoor combined experience and normally very careful. We chose Piddington that day because it was a popular area, easy grades, well travelled, and from what we could tell in the guidebook, well marked.

1. Firstly, 8 years combined experience doesn't mean a whole lot of experience (although it all depends on what you have fitted into those years). I have heard it said that if you survive your first five years of climbing, there is a good chance that you will survive many more. Sounds like you have just enough experience to get yourself into trouble, but perhaps not enough experience to fully appreciate all the potential dangers.

2. Whilst Piddington is a good choice of crag for what you wanted to do, there was possibly a degree of casualness, or an assumption that everything would be straightforward. Once you get off the ground then any route is capable of killing you, irrespective of its grade or popularity, so treat every climb with respect and don't become complacent.

In a later post Rock Turtle says...
>Myself personally I don't think I'll be climbing trad routes unless I have a clear topo, or BOMBPROOF beta.

3. This thinking shows me that you feel that somehow the accident is not entirely your fault and that somehow the guidebook is to blame. It is impossible for a guidebook to warn you of every conceivable danger. Ultimately climbing is about making your own decisions about what is right for you on the day.

>I placed a cam deep into the horizontal crack for my partner to clip into.

4. This is the anchor you had as the belay and which ultimately failed. Although you have mentioned that you should have rebuilt your three-point anchor, I am keen to know why this placement failed. Single point belays still work (providing you have a good placement!) Did you think this was a good piece? And if so, why did it fail?

>My right hand came across what felt like a bomber crimpy flake...

5. This is the reference to the handhold that eventually broke on you causing you to fall. I am curious to know whether this handhold felt bomber (as in to grab,) or did it feel bomber in that is wasn't going to part company with the cliff? Learning to assess the solidness of rock is an important skill in climbing. But having said that I have experienced holds breaking that I thought were completely solid, so I am aware that the unexpected can happen.

Anyway, it is great to hear that you are both recovering well. I doubt there is anyone in the world of climbing who hasn't had an accident or near miss during their climbing careers. Accidents like this are great for imagining all sorts of horrible scenarios next time you go climbing. Just take your time and deal with these thoughts as they arise and don't let them overwhelm you.