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Omiros, 7b fall 24-Jun-2015 At 9:08:54 PM Macciza

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No Snacks, it looks like short roping because of the obvious lack of slack in the system for literally the whole time leading up to when he falls, after which the belayer appears to try to take in more slack and braces himself so as to not budge an inch. This analysis is backed up by the fact that the climber pendulums straight into the wall rather then falling in a more downwards (softened) trajectory. If someone belayed like that at a competition they'd be immediately retired....

The long post was necessary to demonstrate the facts to those who think the draw was at his waist, which clearly it wasn't. How could he have possibly got his leg around the rope like that with the draw at his waist, unless you are suggesting that he did a back somersault and that it is all some how completely the climbers fault for the consequences.

Basically there should have been more top out, at least 1m probably 2m, so the rope in front of the belayer is a nice gentle arc rather then a fairly straight line as seen here, a further 1m or more would ordinarily be given by giving way and absorbing some of the peak force with your body movement.

Seeing my leader fall with the rope around his leg as in this instance should prompt me to jump even more to try and absorb more of the force. If done properly, with the right amount of slack and everything aligning perfectly, he wouldn't even hit the wall. And I might be well up towards the first bolt, back to the wall and he'd be upside down, laughing and rubbing the rope burn. ....

Having more rope out provides more rope for dynamic action and due to friction the most important part is the bit from the final biner to the climber, having slack provides this. Having a shorter rope also means you begin penduluming earlier and higher in the arc and everything converts to angular momentum slamming you into the cliff. Having more rope out puts you later and lower into the pendulum arc due to length of slack rope and downwards motion then has to be absorbed by rope before becoming angular motion. Giving way or jumping to absorb force at a close enough time introduces further force absorbing and length extension to further reduce angular motion. it is possible to reach full stretch and bounce back up before being swung into the cliff this way . . .

Anyway bottom line is I can't see anything that the belayer does as being done particularly well, and certainly see him as a major source of contributing factors that made the incident far worse then it should have been.

PS Cheers Dalai, druggist / hempophobic comments are simply unecessary and best ignored. Or engaged by turning them upside down and pointing out that if it were a two-bong reply well obvious it provided a very precise view of the facts, presented with undeniable logic, despite my drug addled brain. I mean its not exactly rocket surgery or anything . . .