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Topic Date User

Omiros, 7b fall 24-Jun-2015 At 10:49:27 AM Macciza

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Aha, the good Dr, you say it best when you say nothing at all , and you've not said much...
I don't see how having belay on that climb or not makes any difference, or even that someone who has belayed on that climb more times then you have would therefore know better. Maybe you short roped your climber too and had pretty much the same thing happen and believe that is simply how it is ...
Particularly given your comments so far, a high first bolt that slams you into the wall ? Um don't low first bolts slam you into the wall and high first bolts pull you upwards. So what if you slam the wall, if you are protecting the leader that's your job....
I find it absurd that technology has gotten so much better and yet the human component has gotten so much worse. Belayers more interested in making short falls then safe ones, thinking a tight rope is better then a slack belay, not giving dynamic catches, worrying more about themselves then the leader, and basically belaying badly but believing themselves to be uber safe . .. Because they wear a helmet and gloves when belaying, and anchor themselves to ground, and always use the correct abseil backup, etc etc etc
I find it ridiculous that so many people seem to be defending the belayer and think that he did did the best job possible under the circumstances. He didn't! He f---ed up badly and the climber paid the price for his bad belaying.....