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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Topic Date User
Omiros, 7b fall 24-Jun-2015 At 12:47:27 AM Macciza
Message
Sorry, but have to totally disagree. There is no way the draw is 'at his waist' when he falls, or that he pushes off so hard (to somehow get his leg over at rope that is supposedly at his waist??)...
The draw is at his waist at 0, and his left leg is bent, he then stands on that leg and gets a drop knee with his right at 4, which he swaps to with left at 14, stabbing his right foot to wide at 15, then by 20 he finds a high hand hold at full extension off his left and bring his right foot in high, above the draw, at 21, and left foot at similar height at 22. It also appears to me that he is moving outwards (i.e. overhanging). Then as he falls he unfortunately bends his right leg in a bit and catching the rope behind his ankle and ending behind his knee as the rope comes tight.
At 39, just into the slo-mo section, you can clearly see his foot above the draw. There is also a lot of tension in the rope even at this point the draws are all pulled out and the rope at the bottom running to the belayer is dead straight. He then takes in some slack, and braces himself so as to not move an inch.?!#@*??
Fall deceleration?? More like Pendulum!! Having more slack in the system is the only way to avoid this.
As a general rule yes - more slack is better then a tight rope, worser outcomes like hitting ledges are the exception. More slack provides more rope able to absorb force and help avoid direct pendulums.
Providing a dynamic belay is even more important with auto locking devices to help reduce peak force and spread it over a longer time. I would certainly be doing so in this instance and probably be expecting to get pulled off my feet and whipped around a bit as I shared some of the peak forces.

Yep often when its an expected fall and its a controlled dismount then yeah take in a bit of slack so you can slump on to the rope - but thats not whats happening here, the guy appears to be going for the tick, so the slack should be on anyway,and then when he's sketching that bit at the end you gotta keep it on because he's hoping to make the move and because you don't want to pendulum him into the wall below.

Most of the time my priority is on giving a nice catch that doesn't slam the climber into the wall and amount of slack, and dynamic belaying is the only way to achieve that. Even when it is a short roped controlled dismount I will give way to the force rather then brace completely against it.

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