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Topic Date User

Omiros, 7b fall 23-Jun-2015 At 11:09:34 PM patto

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On 23/06/2015 OozeDumbHopeless wrote:
>Not enough slack? As Mikl points out, the last draw was at his waist.
>There was heaps of slack.

I agree. Mikl's observation seems be accurate. Had the all the slack been taken in then the fall might have only been 2m not the 6m it seems to be.

On 22/06/2015 Macciza wrote:
>Having more rope out (then that guy, not taking any in and not bracing
>oneself) will almost always be better, any worser outcomes are the exception
>not the rule. And sometimes require dropping people even further . . .

Huh? As a general rule this seems absurd. There are plenty of climbs which are steep overhanging sport routes. And even on these more slack isn't always better. Have more rope out means higher energy falls. In the example above it seems to be 3x more due to the slack in the system. It also makes hitting ledges below the climber more likely.

Certainly many times I've taken expected falls I've asked my to take in the slack. Most of the time my priority is reducing the length of the fall and ensuring am appropriately braced for any impact that will result.